Preserving has been around for centuries. Before refrigeration, people relied on the process to add some variety through less fruitful months. Fresh produce, rehashed. I always think of preserving as like a fruit or vegetable’s footprint, a memory of it that’s bottled up to come flooding back at a later date. In winter, simply opening up a jar of peach jam can fill you with sunshine nostalgia, regardless of the weather outside.
The same is true of autumn and winter fruits: apples, pears, oranges … and quinces. This last fruit is now coming to the end of its season, making this the perfect time to create some jarred memories for the months to come.
I wasn’t so familiar with quince when I was younger. It seems to have risen in popularity again only recently after some lost years – it pops up in Victorian cookbooks and old still-life paintings. You may not even know what a quince looks like, its most familiar form being the lurid quince paste from Spain, membrillo, more a gelatinous condiment to ham or cheese than a recognisable fruit.
Quinces belong to the Rosaceae family, halfway between an apple and a pear. They are larger and harder than the average apple, so generally not to be eaten raw. The peel is a bright lemon-lime colour and its white flesh has this magical quality of turning into the most fantastic schoolgirl pink when cooked. Nowadays, quinces are used frequently across the Mediterranean; in ancient Greece they were even given as an offering at weddings, a quick nibble for the bride to perfume the marital kiss.
Each year, right about now, I frantically find as many ways as possible of preserving the season’s remaining quinces, from membrillo to quince jelly, so that I can hold on to sweet memories of festive cheeseboards. For today’s recipes I have preserved them in large slices that I can pluck out and eat straight from the jar like a kid with a can of peaches. These chunks can be added directly to a breakfast bowl of granola and yoghurt or as a quick dessert with vanilla ice-cream. I’ve subtly seasoned the concoction with citrus for some tartness, white balsamic vinegar for a sharp touch and vanilla to round it off with sweetness.
If, like me, January is never really a detox month for you, treat any guests – but more importantly yourself – with my quince tarte tatin laced with pink peppercorns and lemon thyme – my second recipe for you.
Preserved quinces in white balsamic and vanilla
Makes 2x500ml jars
4-5 quinces (approx 1.3kg)
800ml water
550g golden granulated sugar
4 star anise
1 vanilla pod, seeds scraped
Zest of 2 lemons
50ml lemon juice (approx 1 lemon)
50ml white balsamic vinegar
1 Sterilise your jars and lids by washing in warm soapy water and rinsing thoroughly before placing in a warm oven of around 120C/250F/gas mark ½ for at least 20 minutes.
2 Bring a large pot of water to the boil. Prepare the quince by washing and peeling. Then cut them into quarters from the top to bottom removing the core as you work. Slice each quarter in half so you have eight 1-2cm thick slices that resemble crescents.
3 Put the quince slices into the boiling water for no more than 5 minutes on a rolling boil, retaining their firmness, then drain.
4 Meanwhile, in another wide-based saucepan combine the water, sugar, star anise, vanilla seeds and emptied pod with the zest and juice of the lemons and bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to a simmer.
5 Submerge a layer of the parboiled quince slices into the syrup and poach in batches for about 20 minutes per batch. Carefully remove the slices from the syrup and place into the sterilised jar, returning it to the low-temperature oven between each batch until you have filled the jar to within 1cm from the top.
6 Once both jars are filled, stir the white balsamic vinegar into the remaining syrup, then divide this equally between the two jars. Place a cut-out circle of parchment paper on top and seal.
7 Label, date and store unopened for up to 6 months. Once open keep in the fridge for up to 4 weeks.
Preserved quince tarte tatin with whipped orange mascarpone
An interesting variation on the classic French recipe.
Serves 8-10 people
Plain flour, for dusting
500g puff pastry
18-20 slices preserved quince
100g caster sugar
60g unsalted butter, chilled and diced
1 tsp pink peppercorns
3-4 sprigs lemon thyme
For the whipped orange mascarpone
250g mascarpone
Juice and zest of 1 orange
1 tsp icing sugar
1 Preheat the oven to 190C/375F/gas mark 5.
2 Dust a work surface with flour and roll out the pastry to a 5cm-thick disc the size of the base of a large ovenproof frying pan. Lightly prick the pastry, put on a plate and leave in the fridge to cool.
3 In a heavy-based ovenproof frying pan heat the sugar over a medium-high heat for about 5-6 minutes until it dissolves and starts to caramelise, becoming amber in colour.
4 Remove the pan from the heat and stir into the sugar the chilled butter until it is completely melted – it should take on a creamier, more toffee-like appearance. Sprinkle the pink peppercorns and lemon thyme sprigs on top.
5 Quickly and carefully assemble the preserved quince slices on to the caramel while it is still hot, into an attractive arrangement following the arch of the crescents in a circular formation, around the edge of the pan. Repeat the circles to the centre, and fill the central gap with the last 2 or 3 slices. Remove the pastry from the fridge and gently lay it on top, tucking it down into the edges of the pan.
6 Bake the tarte tatin for about 20-25 minutes or until the pastry is golden and the edges are starting to bubble up, looking crispy and caramelised.
7 Remove from the oven and allow to cool slightly for 5 minutes. Run a knife around the edge of the tarte, place a serving plate or chopping board on top of the pan then quickly flip the tarte tatin out, allowing the caramel to dribble down.
8 Allow to cool slightly for another 5 minutes before slicing and dressing with extra lemon thyme.
9 To make the whipped orange mascarpone, in a large bowl, whisk together the mascarpone, orange juice and zest with the icing sugar until well combined. Serve on the side with your tarte tatin.
